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The Susan May files

Susan May wrote this paper as part of the Cambridge University Extra-Mural Board Certificate Landscape History and Field Archaeology as her third-year project in 1983 or 2004

 

A Study Of The Development Of The Parish Of Little Shelford

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General description of Little Shelford

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Little Shelford is a fairly small parish of 1,196 acres about five miles south of Cambridge, in the valley of the river Cam. The terrain is mostly flat, nowhere more than 15 metres above sea level, save in the south west, where Cockle Hill rises to 30 metres above sea level. It lies mainly on lower chalk, with a strip of alluvium and valley gravels along the river. Much of the land is Grade Two agricultural land and is used for arable farming with cereal crops, but there are meadows along the river and some near the centre of the village. There are also fair-sized wooded areas.

 

The village itself lies in the north-west of the parish, close to a river crossing. Its buildings reveal the traditional building materials of the area; clay bat, wood, flint and thatch. There is no stone locally so even the Church has only stone corner stones and dressings, the major part of the structure being of field stones. Flints are plentiful by the river and have been used in boundary walls and outbuildings, as here at Rectory Farm.

 

The older houses, however, were built of clay bat or timber framed.

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The M11 motorway now cuts across the south west of the parish, and the Cambridge - Royston railway line across the north west. All other roads are now minor roads. There are many drains across the parish, but the lowest lying land is still liable to flood.

 

The population in mid-1981 was 880.

 

A WALK ROUND THE VILLAGE

This is a brief description of the properties in the village with such historical notes as I have found.

 

BRIDGE LANE

South Side

No 2 East Lodge: Modern bungalows approached by drive.

No 6 Chinner: Large C19 white brick building with remains of clock in tower. Former stables and coach house to Little Shelford Hall. Old wall along drive breached to make new entrance.

No 8 Courts and No 10 Shalloes: Modern bungalows. All on land formerly part of Little Shelford Hall estate.

 

North Side

Wall of Manor House estate, mainly C18 red brick, repaired in places.

 

WHITTLESFORD ROAD

East Side

The Old House: On the corner with Bridge Lane. Plastered timber frame and brick, painted yellow. Listed Grade II. C17 origin (although some sources claim C15) with alterations in 1764 and 1858 (dates in the plaster) when part was demolished to form smaller Lodge for the new Victorian Gothic Hall. The new hall was burnt down in 1928 (*actually 1929) and the lodge then enlarged. Bought about 1700 by Gregory Wale from Gilbert Wigmore, who was then Lord of the Manor. Thomas Wale laid out the grounds in the later C18, but the white brick wall along Whittlesford Road is C19.

 

Wale Recreation Ground

Was part of Little Shelford Hall grounds. Given as a recreation ground in 1947 by Miss Powell, inheritor of the Wale estates. Used for cricket from 1877.

 

Courtyards

Small estate built about 1960/61 on land formerly part of the Little Shelford Hall

estate and surrounded by trees.

 

Kulu: House built before Courtyards but in same block of land.

 

Southcourts or South Lodge: Built 1920s.

 

Arable land with tree belt by stream and meadows beyond.

 

Rectory Farm: Brick, clay bat and slate house built after enclosure but before 1833. Known in early C20 as Frog Hall. Some farm buildings of flint. Now owned by J. Fordham and Sons with Hall Farm.

 

Ley Grove Cottages: Nine C19 brick cottages, a terrace of seven originally with two added later. Probably for farm workers. Built on land allotted for gravel pit, by Hamer Towgood.

 

West Side

 

Camping Close

Meadow, bought by Thomas Wale in 1760s with Kings Farm. Name could refer to ‘Camp

Ball’, a kind of football; ‘Champions Close’ referring to village sports, or to enclosed

land. Miss F.L. Wale reports it as anciently called Angel Close. The Wale family

mausoleum stood there from 1775 to 1845.

 

No 8 Lime Cottage: C18 timber framed, with brick addition 1865. Two cottages before 1865.

 

No 10 Studio Cottage: C18, built as two cottages. Altered by Col.R.G. Wale in 1862 to make a reading room for labouring men and a schoolroom for boys, with a large new room and windows and doors from the old Hall. Used for classes until 1909.

 

No 12: Part C18 timber framed and thatched, part eight years old.

 

No 14: C18 timber frame or clay bat thatched cottage, with ‘Little Shelford No 14’ painted on board on gable end to road. Juts out into road and probably pre-turnpike.

 

These houses, together with several other “wretched, overcrowded hovels” (Miss Wale) formed Pound Yard. Bought by Col Wale about 1850 and the worst hovels removed. The animal pound, which was to the north of No 14 was removed about 1859, and the stocks earlier.

 

Milestone - Iron, stating Cambridge 5 miles, London 50.

 

No 16 Ivy Cottage: C18 timber framed cottage, twice enlarged.

 

Nos 24–34: Semi-detached Council Houses built about 1950. Previously open field belonging to Kings Farm.

 

Beech Close

Small Council Estate on previously open field. Some built about 1950, others 1961.

 

Nos 36–42: Semi-detached Council Houses built with Nos 24–34.

 

Park Royale: Large modern red brick house.

 

Stebbings and Tofts: Joiners’ premises.

 

Walkers Builders: Has been carpenter’s shop and timber yard since at least the beginning of the C20.

 

Little Shelford Stores

No 50: Square white brick and render house. Built 1838.

 

The Terrace

Nos 52 & 54: Modern houses on greenfield site.

 

Meadow

High Street

Clay Pit Lane

Bradmere

Modern bungalow

 

Sainsfoins: House set back, with lodge at roadside. Also two other cottages on the premises. Built after enclosure but before 1842, included small farm often farmed with Rectory Farm. So called because the herb was widely grown in the surrounding fields.

 

HIGH STREET

East Side

No 1 Corner House & No 3 Flintcombe: Modern white painted houses. Until at least the 1960s there were three timber framed cottages and yard on this site, C17–C18, at one time belonging to a carrier. The corner cottage was the Post Office for a time, but created a dangerous junction with Church Street as it was built right to the edge of the road.

 

Camping Close

See Whittlesford Road. Although the ground is uneven there are no obvious earthworks.

 

Drive to modern bungalow behind Chapel. This was a path to Studio and Ivy Cottages.

 

No 11: Timber framed or clay bat, rendered and part timber clad. C18–C19, once converted to two cottages.

 

Congregational Chapel: Founded 1823 but possibly rebuilt about 1880 by Marshall. Now closed.

 

No 13: White pebble dash cottage to right of Chapel.

 

Honeysuckle Cottage: C19. Possibly clay bat and reputedly thatched originally.

 

No 15: C18–C19, timber framed and brick faced. Used to be two cottages. For many years the baker’s house with bakehouse to rear and shop on road front – the shop window still exists. The business started in 1841 and closed in 1976. (* Actually 1974.)

 

No 17 Chascot: C19 house, lathe and plaster. At 1880 there were two cottages behind.

 

No 19 Stable House: Modern House approached by drive, but appears to incorporate former stables of Kings Farm.

 

No 21: Large modern house behind Kings Farmhouse.

Kings Farmhouse: Originally a two bay C16 cottage, it has been enlarged in the 18th, 19th and 20th centuries, and the main front has a Victorian appearance. The end of a first floor beam can be seen from the road. Listed grade II. In the Wale family from the C18.

 

C17/C18 dovecote still stands in the grounds, converted to a garden room early C20.

 

The white brick garden wall shows signs of a previous entrance when the front of the house was on the south side. (Changed by Mr J.F. Eaden C19)

 

No 31: Rendered house giving old appearance but built in 1976. On site of three cottages possibly C18, demolished as unfit.

 

Nos 35 – 49: Terrace of C19 clay bat cottages, listed Grade II although in 1964 they were considered to have a short life expectancy. The row of nine cottages is now seven after conversion work late 1960s. The arch between Nos 39 and 41 leading to back yards is now filled in.

 

Nos 51 & 53 (Sammok): Built between 1870 and 1900 although enclosure map shows property on site. Clay bat. No 53 modernised. Clunch wall between Nos 53 and 55.

 

No 55 Alberta & No 57 Editha: 1930s semis. Pebbledashed. Previously garden of No 59.

 

No 59: Georgian style house. Certainly in existence by 1880.

 

No 61: Modern house, previously grounds of No 59.

 

The Plough Public House: C17 - C18 timber framed and plastered. Certainly ale house by 1830s.

 

No 65: C19 ? clay bat. This was two cottages, and the end nearest the Plough was a sweet shop, the window of which still exists. There was a bakery here until 1909. Now prams etc are sold from the yard behind.

 

No 67 Carriers: C17 origin, timber framed with exposed timbers, thatched. Was a beer house called the Carriers Cart and a shop. Licence revoked in 1884 as there were too many Public Houses in the village, but coal and groceries continued to be sold. Tap room demolished and two dwellings converted into one in late 1970s.

 

No 71: White rendered house, possibly 1950s, on site of storage barn for 'Carriers'. Yard at rear with outbuildings remains. Used to be known as Litchfields Yard.

 

No 73: C18 timber framed thatched cottage, formerly called Old Petts Yard - in 1880 it was occupied by the carrier to London, who kept his horse and wagon at the back. Three up and three down, it could well have been three cottages at one time as there are three doors.

 

Grassed area

Site of a row of two roomed cottages, possibly C18.

 

The Terrace

No 77 Pump Cottage: Modern bungalow. Site of thatched cottage.

 

Parish Pump

C19 black cast iron. Only surviving village pump, restored 1981.

 

No 81 Sawood: Modern house. Site of two cottages gable end to road.

 

No 83: Modern house. Site of Elm Farm - cottages altered in 1888.

 

Grazing land: Maltern Close - barn and house burnt down 1851. Apparently there was a brewery on the site.

 

Nos 93 & 95: Probably three properties at one time. C18 origin, part timber frame or clay bat, part brick. Recorded as King William IV public house 1847. Closed in 1910 as superfluous and converted to private dwellings.

 

Meadows

 

West Side

No 2: Modern house on corner of Garden Fields. In the earlier part of the C20 there was a barn on site.

 

Nos 4 & 6: Built by Chesterton R.D.C. about 1925 on open land.

 

No 8 Meadow Cottage: Large modern house on site of former tennis courts.

 

No 12: Very large modern house in grounds of No 8.

 

No 14: 1950s house. Front hedge on road line.

 

Greenfield site.

 

Nos 16 - 22: 1930s houses. Greenfield site.

 

No 26 White Farmhouse : C17 - C18 clay bat, thatched, gable end on to road. Farmhouse of White Farm (now part of Hall Farm) with farm buildings to rear. Name reputed to be because of chalky nature of soil. Used to be farm workers' cottages to south.

 

No 30 Allsprings House: Modern house, in grounds of Kirby Lodge.

Kirby Lodge: The Enclosure Map shows a house on this site which may form the basis of the present largely Victorian house. Extension built to south about 1900. In the later C19 it was a private school and is so again, after reverting to a private house.

 

No 34 Trees: Modern house in the grounds of Kirby Lodge.

Low Brooms: Brick and tile house built about 1900 with garage added later. Large grounds.

 

No 40: Modern bungalow (post 1962) on land sold with Low Brooms.

Electricity Sub Station.

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Alnwick House: Large modern house, post 1970, on Hall Farm land.

Nos 44 & 46: White and black bungalows built 1974/5 on Hall Farm land. This area was zoned Green Belt, but Planning Permission was allowed on appeal.

 

No 50 Hall Farm: Earliest part of farmhouse C16, timber framed: many later additions, mostly in brick. Front door moved early C20. Sun Insurance mark on front wall. Listed Grade II. Also timber framed and weather boarded barn, probably C17. Formerly owned by Wale family, now by the Fordhams. Farmed with White and Rectory Farms.

 

Meadow

 

No 68 The White House: Rendered cottage with modern brick extension. Shown at enclosure. Formerly two cottages.

 

No 72 Dagles Cottage & No 74: Faced with white brick. Shown at enclosure. At 1880 these two formed three cottages. No 74 has modern brick extension.

 

No 80: Modern house, in grounds of Westfield.

No 82: Westfield: Built about 1830, later enlarged. Square red brick house. Some outbuildings may be earlier.

 

THE TERRACE (Formerly known as The Thoroughfare)

North Side

Nos 2 & 4: Modern bungalows (post 1970) on site of terrace of five C19 clay bat cottages, one of which was the village laundry.

 

No 6 Swiss Cottage: C19, adapted from two cottages by early C20. Has ? apple store.

Grassed area Site of terrace of five cottages, shown at enclosure.

 

South Side

Nos 18 & 20: Modern bungalow and house respectively. Originally fields belonging to Elm Farm and anciently called Card Gab (or Gap). Converted to allotments for cottages in The Terrace by Col. Wale about 1880. In the 1950s the north side of The Terrace was the limit of building, extended in the 1960s.

 

HAUXTON ROAD

East Side

Prince Regent Public House Car park: Formerly five cottages attached to the Prince Regent, some shown at enclosure, still there about 1916.

 

The Ropewalk: Now leads to modern house, but was a path along which ropes were laid and tarred. The ropeworks was newly built in 1782 and offered for lease by Thomas Wale. The rope factory closed earlier in the C20 but was still standing until about 1968. The premises were used for other small industries. The ropewalk extended almost to the Church, but has now been taken into gardens.

 

Nos 2 – 8: Built by Chesterton R.D.C. about 1922.

Nos 10 – 46: Private bungalows and houses built between the 1930s and 1960s, retaining a wooded strip in the front gardens of nos 28 – 46.

 

The whole of this stretch was fields belonging to Manor Farm, which continue to the east and north, crossed by the railway line.

 

Finally there is a triangle of meadow with the remains of a building.

 

West Side

Remains of blacksmith's shop - part of wall only.

Village pump was in front from 1908 (to commemorate the Jubilee) until 1965 when it was demolished after a car ran into it.

 

Nos 1 – 3: C18 timber framed cottages, originally three, now one, with a further cottage on the roadside. In a state of dereliction for some years, but restoration is now proceeding.

 

No 5: Modern house. Small cottages C19/early C20.

No 7 Wayside: Modern semi-detached house. Small cottages on site previously.

Drive to Workshop (clay bat and brick) and barn. These appear to have been built early C20.

Nos 15 & 17: Semi-detached pebble dash cottages. C19 stud and plaster.

 

Newton Road

Nos 19a, b & c: Modern wood clad flat roofed bungalows behind high wall. On part site of brewery shown at 1885, but out of use by about 1910. Rest of site is garden of West End House.

 

Nos 21 – 27: C19 white brick terrace.

Nos 29 – 59: Semi - detached houses built by Chesterton R.D.C. about 1931.

No 61 Kernow: Built possibly 1930s. Before it was built the willows growing beside the ditch provided the materials for the hurdle weaver.

Nos 61a & 63: Modern bungalows. This was market garden land in 1935.

No 65 Railway cottage: C19.

Railway line

No 67 Andeen: Bungalow ? 1950s. Market garden land in 1935.

Nos 69 – 75: Pebble dash semis ? 1930s.

No 77: Modern house, half timbered. Site of prefab in 1950s.

Nos 79 & 81: Pebble dash semis ? 1930s. Greenhouses behind towards the railway.

No 50: High Street, Bungalow.

Hauxton.

 

GARDEN FIELDS

North Side

Nos 2 – 8: Built early C20 on allotment land, a terrace.

Nos 10 – 16: Terrace built 1912 in same style as 2 – 8.

South Side

Nos 1 – 7: Built by Chesterton R.D.C. on former allotment land in about 1926 and 1938.

No 11: House built post 1977.

No 13: Red brick house ? 1930s.

Beyond are allotments - Blennie's Patch. Col. Wale made the first allotments there in 1880. Reputedly once the village recreation ground. Sold by Blennie Powell to Parish Council 1981.

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NEWTON ROAD

North Side

West End House: Built 1818, with additions in slightly different style. This and Weston House were one in the early C20. Owned by the Austin family, who also owned West End Brewery.

 

No 2 Weston House: Was part of West End House.

Woodville Lodge:  C19 house and barns built by 'Gentleman' Smith.

No 6: Modern house. Previously market garden.

Nos 8 – 18: Semi-detached houses. Nos 8 – 16 built by Chesterton R.D.C. about 1930.

Arable land

No 40 Mount Pleasant: Modern bungalow. Taken out of arable field.

South Side

No 1 Badgers: Main part of house C18 timber framed and thatched. Clay bat store now part of house. Gardens used as builders yard in 1930s. Restored and improved 1911-12 by F. Marshall.

 

Nos 5 – 11: White brick terrace built in two sections in 1894 and 1907, with arch between.

Whitegates: White brick C19 house, much enlarged from original.

Paddock with stables: Arthur Austin said to have had a foundry there and 'invented' things.

 

The Red House: Built 1890-2. Now County Council home for disturbed children.

No 27 Orchard House: House ?1950s.

No 31: Modern house.

No 35: House in Harston Parish.

 

CHURCH STREET

North Side

No 1 Prince Regent Public House: C18 timber framed origin - part fronting Hauxton Road looks like two cottages. Two brick extensions. Recorded as a public house 1847. In C19 and early C20 there was a large barn on the east side. Described by Miss Wale as having good accommodation for people and horses.

 

No 3 Cayuga Cottage: C19. Front brick faced. Slate roof hipped at front. Carpenter's yard at rear once.

No 5: Modern house. Early C20 this was the kitchen garden for Ingleside, opposite.

Nos 7 – 9: Probably C17 timber framed and thatched. Central chimney stack. Later gabled wing projecting from right hand end recently demolished. Listed Grade II. Many outbuildings at rear, connected with the rope-making business, still exist.

 

No 11: C19 clay bat or timber frame. gable end on. Looks like several cottages and two buildings are shown at enclosure. William Gall's house (ropemaker).

 

Electricity Sub Station

Village Hall: Dated 1925. In 1918 a small wooden recreation room was erected on the site of old cottages, demolished 1905, and was removed to become the cricket pavilion when the present hall was built. Enlarged 1932.

 

The Chequers Public House: Appears to exist at enclosure, but burnt down with adjacent cottages and wheelwright's barn. Rebuilt in the late 1860s in white brick by Thomas Austin. Licence taken away at one time, but early C20 described as like a private Inn.

 

Rose Cottage: C19 timber framed or clay bat. Cottage on site at enclosure. Burnt down and rebuilt by Thomas Austin. Drive to north of house leads to C19 timber barn.

No 19 Corner Beech House: White washed brick built house. Built in 1880s but enlarged later. Previously wheelwright's house and yard. Early C20 called Primrose Villa, later Ajwa.

 

No 21 and 23 Beech Cottages: Clay lump on brick foundation. Shown at enclosure. C19 known as Providence Place. Gable end on to road.

 

No 25 Griffins & nos 27 & 29: Modern houses behind high brick wall built early C20, previously a privet hedge. Was grass field belonging to Church House, and in early C19 orchard.

 

No 31/33 Church House: C19. Started as a modest cottage, refaced with brick and enlarged later C19.

 

Church: Flint rubble with stone dressings. Earliest part of structure c 1080. Much repaired. Listed Grade B.

 

South Side

 

No 2/4 Benoni or Ingleside: C19 three storey, white brick house. Owned in C19 by members of the Finch family (former Lords of the Manor).

 

No 6: Painted brick front, reputed to have been thatched. Appears to exist on enclosure. Until about 1962 was village shop, and Post Office at one time. Shop window still exists and the shop door can be traced to its left.

 

No 8: Bungalow set back. Reputed to be converted cow shed. In C19 there was a large barn and yard on this site, shown at enclosure.

 

No 10 Robwood: Modern house. built on part garden of Cintra Lodge.

No 14 Cintra Lodge: C19 white brick house with large side garden. Clay bat front wall collapsed about one week before writing this.

 

No 16: St Andrews: Red brick house with first floor render. built c 1908. On site of Three Horse Shoes Public House, though set further back. The ale house existed before 1787 and was converted from cottages. Used for parish meetings in the 1830s, but in the later C19 little business was done and the licence was taken away in 1907 was superfluous. There was a large yard with stables and sheds. There was also a small building on the boundary with Cintra Lodge, used as a shop by various people.

 

No 18: Bungalow 1960s.

N.B. Flint wall extends from east corner of Church Street to the western boundary of this property.

 

No 20: Modern house.

No 22: Modern bungalow. post 1977, in grounds of No 24.

No 24: C19 white rendered house. Barn behind house C18 - C19, timber framed and weatherboarded. Buildings are shown on the site at enclosure. and the house was once occupied by horse-dealers, when there were more barns.

 

No 26 Gregory's Corner: Large white painted brick house, C20. Appears to be built on the site of the Wale mausoleum.

 

 

MANOR ROAD

West Side

Priesthaus (Priest House):  Built 1858 of brick and stone as Rectory on site of previous Rectory, which had certainly existed at enclosure.

 

Rectory: Built 1962 in grounds of old Rectory.

Manor Farm: Farmhouse built early 1950s when farmland sold separately from Manor Farmhouse.

East Side

Manor House: Built about 1748 by William Finch, on site of C17 house built by Sir Toby Palavicini, also on the site of an earlier house. Most of Sir Toby's moat was filled in by William Finch. One of the side wings is reputed to be from the C17 house. Grade II* Former front drive visible as hump.

 

Manor Farmhouse: Probably built about the same time as the Manor House, but barns incorporated may be older.

 

References for this section would be too numerous to include individually, but information is largely from Planning Authority records on Listed Buildings, sale particulars, Miss Wale's 'In memory of the Sounds of Shelford Parva', local knowledge and my own eyes.

EARLY HISTORY

The earliest history of the area is as one of the many pre-Roman native settlements along the Cam valley, bearing no relation to present parish boundaries. Air photographs reveal an extensive network of enclosures, fields and tracks on the Manor Farm fields in the north of the parish two sectors of which are Scheduled Ancient Monuments. There are 'D' shaped and oval enclosures, a rectangular one with opposed but slightly offset entrances, and what appears to be a trackway leading to the river. A double ditch feature can also be seen between Hauxton and Newton Roads which, although of the right size to be a track, has unusually sharp angles and may mark a boundary.

 

Slightly further south again, behind White Farm are two distinct 'D' shaped enclosures, and even further south, on the east side of the M11, near Well Head Springs, are more signs of settlement. A Bronze Age palstave was found at Rectory Farm (1). It seems likely, therefore, that much of the land was settled and farmed from prehistoric times, which would fit in with the general picture of early settlements on the lighter, more easily worked soils.

 

Roman coins and pottery are reputed to have been found on the meadows and fields. An Anglo-Saxon burial was found in the north-east of the parish, near the river, and at least one of the grave slabs found in the Church in the 19th century restorations and built into the porch walls is Anglo-Saxon (3). None of these prove settlement, but the Domesday Book entries believed to refer to Little Shelford mention a total of 22 sokemen (but some may be counted twice) holding land under five landlords in King Edward's time. The landlords included the Church of Ely, which had a monasterium besides land but which was largely ousted by Hardwin de Scalers by 1086 (4).

 

The village we know must have started as a settlement by a river crossing: the ford which gave both Shelfords their names. Possibly they began as a single settlement since the first recorded reference to Shelford Parva was in 1228 in the Feet of Fines (5) but since the meadows have always been subject to flooding and the road over the bridges was reputed to flood quite regularly during the last century (6), it seems more logical that they should have always been two settlements, and combined in the Domesday survey because before 1066 the Abbot of Ely had held most of the land as one estate.

 

Whatever the origin, the settlement grew up on a west-east alignment along the access to the river, now Church Street, which was probably part of a track from Foxton (7). The track probably ran across what are now the Manor House grounds, being pushed over to the present line of Bridge Lane when the wall was built in the 18th century.

 

The river is still fordable near the bridges, the older of which (the eastern one) was built by 1630 to replace a wooden one, and rebuilt in 1782 (8), and there is another ford in the Manor House grounds. The Manor House and the Church remain in the vicinity of this old settlement, the first Norman Church being built about 1080, and a Manor House being recorded from the late 13th century (8) but settlement crept further west along Church Street and into High Street.

 

Of the inhabitants recorded in 'E Scalford' in 1086, probably about 25 were in Little Shelford, the number of tenants growing to about 60 by 1279, in 62 messuages. The number of households in 1563 was about 32, growing to 40 in 1666, reverting to 32 in 1727 and growing again to 61 in 1801 (8). Even allowing for discrepancies in the methods of collecting figures, this points to quite a stable population over a long period, increasing in the second half of the 18th century in line with the general trend.

 

Until 1700 the largest landowner was the Lord of the Manor, the title passing from the de Scales family to the de Frevilles in the 13th century and to Sir Toby Palavicino in the 15th century. Sir Toby built a new moated Manor House and had a new section of river dug to feed it. The Lordship then passed through the Wigmores and Gillinghams until William Finch, a Cambridge ironmonger, bought it in 1745. He demolished Sir Toby's Manor House, filled in much of the moat, and built a new house in the style of Inigo Jones (local tradition has it that Jones designed the house, but this seems unlikely), but retaining one of the old side wings, for which a balancing wing was later added. Manor Farmhouse was built at or about the same time as the house.

 

The estate may well have been enclosed early, since by 1521 there was apparently much enclosed meadow (10). In about 1700 Gregory Wale bought a mansion house in Little Shelford from Gilbert Wigmore, then Lord of the Manor. The estate included gardens, orchard and pasture of something over 16 acres and was already enclosed. This formed the base from which the Wale family bought much of the land in the parish over the next two centuries.

 

There were three other farms during the period up to enclosure : Hall Farm, the present farmhouse of which was first built in the earlier 16th century, extended to an L-shape in the 17th century and completed to a square in the 18th century was probably the biggest. White Farmhouse, also on the west side of High Street, dates from the 17th century, and Kings Farmhouse began life as a two-bay cottage in the 16th century. These all had some enclosed land, but also strips in the open fields. There were certainly three open fields in 1521, then called Wheat, South and Home fields (10), but known as White, Middle and Danford Fields by 1615. Barley appears to have been the main crop in both the 14th and 16th centuries (10), but the more unusual crops of cinquefoil (Manor Farm) (11) and saffron (Wale Estate) (12) were both grown in the 18th century, saffron in the open fields - although "we are obliged to fence them, as hogs and sheep are exceedingly fond of them".

 

Some land was also intercommonable with Harston, Hauxton and Newton, and with Whittlesford, so the boundaries in the north west and south east were not fixed until Parliamentary enclosure. The sheep walks appear to have been on the intercommon land, where the Wales had the right to feed some 300 sheep (13). A few other people had a right of common for great cattle, but in 1714 cattle kept other than in the common herd were subject to a penalty payable to the Lord of the Manor (14).

 

Church Street and High Street must have existed on much the same line as today for several centuries, with closes to the rear of High Street properties extending to a back lane. This lane was turnpiked by an Act of Parliament of 1727, as part of the road from Great Shelford Pound to Whittlesford. It was part of the Stump Cross Turnpike, and although it was never a major route, it by-passed the village and did not apparently attract building to it. The pre-enclosure buildings were also pre-Turnpike since it is obvious that the grounds of Shelford Hall, and what is now No 14 (see over) on the west side of the road prevented the whole stretch from being laid out to the usual Turnpike standards with wide verges. No 14 is alternatively known as Milestone Cottage, and an early 19th century cast-iron milestone is still in place.

 

A few other premises from before the 18th century still exist, No 7 Church Street (C17), Carriers, 67 High Street (C17) and the Plough Public House, but the majority are 18th century or later. Older buildings were of course vulnerable to fire, and the disastrous blaze of 6th March 1743-4 (15) is unlikely to have been the only one. On that occasion ten houses on and around Church Street were burnt down after Mr Burling burnt the malt at his malthouse on the west side of town, with straw in a high wind. Several entries in the Manor Court minutes also refer to cottages 'lately burnt down'.

 

The Church at least remained, added to at various times up to the 16th century. Sir John de Freville, when Lord of the Manor in the early 12th century is believed to have built the Chancel and founded the tower, and a descendant in the early 15th century added the south chapel (10, and Church History). There is little obvious evidence of what the de Frevilles may have done for the village, but their contribution to the Church was considerable, and there are a number of monuments to members of the family inside. But in 1643 Will Dowsing destroyed much Church property, and the building fell into some decline for the next two centuries.

 

Ropemaking was established in the 18th century, an advertisement appearing in the Cambridge Chronicle of the 31st August 1782 for a tenement to let, new built, for carrying on the business of rope making and sack weaving. Manor Court records also refer to carpenters, cordwainers and brick makers, and hurdle makers. We also know that at least one of the public houses, the Three Horse Shoes, was in business as an ale-house by 1787 as Thomas Wale then certified that Amy Gunner merited a renewal of her licence (12). Thomas also built the Wale family mausoleum on Camping Close in 1775 (12).

 

The general picture of the village, at least from the Mediaeval period until enclosure, is of a small settlement of 30 to 40 houses clustered along Church Street and the eastern side of High Street with the farms opposite. Many of the houses had closes attached or adjoining, usually used as orchard or pasture, but occasionally for arable (Manor Court records), but they also had common rights attached to them for growing crops in the three common fields and for grazing animals on the meadows, moors and fallow land. The open fields occupied the southern half of the parish, with common meadows along the eastern boundary by the river and at the southern tip of the village, and moors to its west (Plan 2). These moors, together with adjoining fields were used in common with Harston, Hauxton and Newton. Much of the northern part of the parish was enclosed, quite probably some centuries before the parliamentary enclosure.

 

EARLY HISTORY NOTES

 

1. C.A.S. vol XXXIV p112

2. V.C.H. i p316

3. C.A.S. L 90.1

4. V.C.H. i pp 375, 385

Feudal Cambridgeshire - W. Farrer (1920)

5. Concise Oxford Dictionary of Place Names (1970)

6. Miss F.L. Wale - 'In Memory of the Sounds of Shelford Parva'

7. C.C. Taylor - Roads and Tracks of Britain (1979)

C.C. Taylor - 'Our neighbours' in 'Whither Whittlesford' No 20

8. V.C.H. viii pp 220-1

9. C.A.S. LV p59

10. V.C.H. viii pp222-4

11. Survey of the Manor Estate 1748 CRO R73/67 305/p

12. Rev. H.J. Wale - My Grandfather's Pocket Book (1883)

13. Harston and Hauxton Inclosure - claims CUL ADD 6011

14. Shelford Parva Manor Court Book 1714 CRO R 67/68

15. East Anglia Notes and Queries 1897.

 

 

PARLIAMENTARY ENCLOSURE

 

Little Shelford was first affected by Parliamentary Enclosure with the Act of Parliament passed in 1798 for the enclosure of the common fields of Harston and Hauxton, including those which were intercommonable with Little Shelford and Newton. The landowners in Little Shelford and Newton would derive little benefit, but had agreed to enclosure at the request of the landowners of Harston and Hauxton. It may, however, be significant that Charles Wale, largest landowner in Little Shelford, was Lord of the Manor of Tiptofts in Harston.

 

The intercommonable fields, Mount Field, Red Dean Field and Pessills Field, together with Little Shelford Moor, were divided amongst the four parishes, and for the first time the boundaries between them were fixed. The boundary between Little Shelford and Whittlesford across the intercommonable Moor was also set out, half of the Moor falling within each parish (1) after a request from Whittlesford for a re-examination of the original proposals (2). The boundaries then set out are shown on Plan 3 and have remained the same to this day.

 

Ten of the 25 proprietors of Little Shelford with rights over the intercommonable land objected to the Bill for Enclosure, notably all smaller property holders, although others with no more property either assented or were neutral (3). All 25 entered claims under the Act (4) but the 86 acres finally allotted to Little Shelford in the Award after complaints about deficiencies were divided amongst sixteen individuals with two allotments awarded in common to the Parish. However, the Act specified that the lands allotted in Little Shelford were to be enjoyed as common land and they were all re-allocated in the Little Shelford Award.

 

The roads running into Little Shelford seem to have existed already, even if only as tracks between fields, but the Number 6 and Number 8 Public Drains, which define the boundary between Little Shelford and Hauxton, and part of the boundary with Harston, were newly cut for draining land on Little Shelford Moor.

 

The Whittlesford Inclosure Award of August 1815 spelled out in more detail the boundary between that parish and Little Shelford and awarded small amounts of land in Whittlesford between the Turnpike Road and the river to William Finch Finch (Lord of the Manor) 0a 1r 30p and Rev. Henry Finch (Rector) 1a 0r 10p in lieu of their rights in the intercommon. This must have been with the agreement of the Little Shelford Commissioners since their Award, dated February of the same year, refers to the boundaries "as set out by the Commissioners on the Whittlesford Inclosure".

 

The Little Shelford Inclosure Act of 1813 was sought for the usual reasons of inconvenience of land holdings and their incapacity for considerable improvement, so that division and inclosure would be advantageous. The Act also exonerated the Rector from providing a bull or boar for the use of the inhabitants, and gave him land in exchange for tithes, while not affecting his rights to Easter offerings and similar fees. Of the total acreage of 1,177a 1r 34p, some 857a  2r 11p was land to be allotted, exclusive of roads and drains; and land already enclosed, with homesteads, amounted to 291a 0r 31p. The majority of the enclosed land belonged to William Finch Finch, Lord of the Manor in the self-contained Manor Estate of about 146 acres, with the Wale family a close second with about 111 acres in all. As Thomas Wale had died in 1796 this land was divided between his three remaining children, but during the 19th century changed hands between various members of the family.

 

On enclosure William Finch Finch was allotted only 6a 3r 28p, for right of soil of the waste lands, so he obviously did not have land in the open fields. Sir Charles Wale, on the other hand, was awarded 215a 2r 34p, including two very large allotments - 158a 0r 4p in White Field and Back Moor, and 128a 1r 35p in Danford Field and The Meadows. His sister, Miss M.P. Wale, was awarded 105a 0r 37p, including 63a 2r 31p in Danford Field and The Meadows. The other sister, Mrs M. Pemberton, was allotted 13a 1r 30p. This meant that the Wale family was the largest landowner in the Parish, followed by the Rector, with allotments of 224a 2r 32p for tithes (the value of 1/5 arable and 1/8 other land liable to tithes) and 28a 0r 0p for glebe.

 

The effect on the fields was dramatic. Danford Field, together with The Meadows, was now in only three ownerships - Charles Wale, Miss M.P. Wale, and the Rector (44a 3r 1p for tithes, 20a 3r 8p for glebe) plus a small triangular piece of land awarded for a gravel pit. One large holding of 179a 3r 31p for the Rector, for tithes, spanned parts of Middle Field and White Field, and one of 158a 0r 4p (Charles Wale) spanned Back Moor and White Field.

 

The smaller allotments were grouped in four main areas: on the Moor, around the Hauxton and Newton roads; on May Common, either side of the private road later known as Clay Pit Road; on Middle Field either side of the private road from the Turnpike Road heading towards Newton; and on White Field at the South West corner of the Parish by the boundary with Newton. The last area, part of the intercommon allotted to Little Shelford in the Harston and Hauxton Award, was the only one any distance from the village centre, but the allottees appear to have had more connection with Newton and Harston than with Little Shelford. The small enclosures around what is now the Bridlepath to Newton were, perhaps, just too far from the village to be convenient since they were taken into the Sainsfoins Estate before long, and the field boundaries now existing, although largely of enclosure date, are of the larger fields. However, a little further north, around Clay Pit Road, the same small fields can still be seen. Many of the boundaries of the enclosures on Hog Moor still exist, but this has been built over to a much greater extent, being immediately adjacent to the existing settlement.

 

Allotments were made to 41 persons, of whom 26 received land of less than four acres. By and large these were the people with the smaller properties in the village who may well have been worse off, having lost their rights over the commons for grazing animals, collecting fuel etc. The only acknowledgements of these losses were in the award of a public watering place to the south of Clay Pit Road and three pits to be used in common - gravel pits on Hog Moor and to the west of the Turnpike Road near the Whittlesford boundary to be used on private premises and for repairing the public and private roads; and a clay pit at the end of Clay Pit Road for use for buildings and fence walls.

 

No horses, asses, cows, sheep, lambs or cattle were to be kept on the public roads for the first seven years, but whether the practice was taken up after that period I do not know.

 

As laid down in the Act, public carriage roads were set out at 40' wide. The Hauxton and Harston (now Newton) roads already existed, even if only as tracks, as they were set out "in (their) present course" and joined up with the roads set out in the Harston and Hauxton Award. The old village roads are not mentioned (this is normal) but Thames Street Road was set out "in its present course" to link High Street and the Turnpike Road. What is odd is that one tiny part of May Common (1 rood 10 perches) was cut off by this road, the boundary of the old enclosure still being visible in the triangular shaped meadow, but whether the track had had already formed exactly along this line is not clear. The Newton Road, in the extreme south west of the parish was set out at only 30' wide, but was only a small section of the road between Whittlesford and Newton and can have had virtually no effect on the parish, except as an alternative access to one field. The Turnpike Road was not altered, but was confirmed at 60' wide.

 

One public footway was set out, from the Turnpike Road towards Danford (*Dernford)  Mills, which provided employment for some of the villagers, but four, across old inclosures, were stopped up. Five private roads were, however, created for access to the new inclosures. Two have already been mentioned: Clay Pit Road, and what is now the Bridleway to Newton, although at that time and for long afterwards it did not reach that far. These were both 30' wide. Two others were near the end of the last road; one 15' wide branching off to the north to reach the smaller enclosures which, although it no longer actually exists, currently forms the dividing line between two crops; the other, 12' wide, was part of a field track in Newton, of which no trace has been seen. The last, a roadway 20' wide, led eastwards from the Turnpike Road to the old inclosure of Charles Martindale on the east side of the river, and also formed the boundary with Whittlesford. This road has been made up and forms part of Spicers' property.

 

Five public drains were dug, all of which are still in use. The first stretches from the Whittlesford boundary to the river Cam by Sir Charles Wale's old inclosure boundary, between the Turnpike Road and the river, partly along the boundary between Danford Field and the Meadows. The second was from May Common, along the edge of the old enclosures, under the Newton and Hauxton Roads, and into the Cam at the north west point of the Parish, part of which, by the Hauxton boundary, had already been set out in the Harston and Hauxton Award. The other three all drained parts of May Common and ultimately led into Drain No 2.

 

The inclosure was the greatest change the parish had witnessed both in terms of landscape and of lifestyle, and the general outline of the parish and its fields has changed remarkably little since then. Hog Moor, Back Moor and May Common were rendered suitable for arable farming through drainage and have remained so farmed, although there is some pasture on May Common. The Meadows by the river, however, have never apparently been cultivated.

 

Nevertheless, parliamentary enclosure cannot have had the same impact on Little Shelford as on many parishes, partly because much of the northern part of the parish was already enclosed, and partly because most of the land was owned by a very small number of people. This latter factor created large fields, two of them not dissimilar in size to the old open fields.

 

PARLIAMENTARY ENCLOSURE – NOTES

 

1. Harston and Hauxton Inclosure Award CRO R54/17/1.2

2. Harston and Hauxton Inclosure Commissioners' Minutes CUL ADD 6013

3. Statement of Property Assenting Neuter and Dissenting to Inclosure Bill CUL Doc 639(2)

4. Harston and Hauxton Inclosure - Claims CUL ADD 6011

 

POST ENCLOSURE DEVELOPMENTS - 19TH AND EARLY 20TH CENTURIES

 

The enclosure of the open fields and commons meant that for the first time building could take place outside the village centre. In fact only two farms were built out in the fields, both of them within about fifteen years of enclosure. Sainsfoins was built on the west side of the Turnpike Road, on land allotted to Charles Finch and sold to the Rev. Francis Henson in 1823 (1) but with only 49 acres in 1843 (2) this was more of a gentleman's residence and the land was frequently farmed with Rectory Farm. The Glebe Farm, known in 1833 as Frog Hall Farm, (3) and now as Rectory Farm was built almost opposite, on the Glebe land.

 

Ley Grove Cottages, presumably taking their name from the nearby 'Largrove', built over the Gravel Pit as a terrace of seven with two later additions, completed the development along the road to Whittlesford. These were built by Mr Hamer Towgood of Sainsfoins (4), either for farm workers or for employees at his Sawston Paper Mills. Two cottages were built just over the river on Charles Martindale's old enclosure and known early this century as 'The Splash' (4) but of those there is no longer any trace.

 

The only other house built on the southern edge of the village was Westfield, a square brick building, built probably around 1830, with an estate if (of?) 18 acres in 1881 (5), which looks likely to have replaced an older house immediately to the north in an old enclosure, the out-buildings of which were retained. The remainder of the extension of the village was to its immediate northwest, along Newton Road. On the north side West End House was built by Daniel Austin in 1818 (4), at which time it would have been the most westerly house in the village, and Arthur Austin later built a brewery in the grounds, fronting Hauxton Road. The next house was Woodville Lodge, built towards the middle of the century, beyond which there were market gardens and arable fields. Both of these were (and are) sizeable houses. On the opposite side of the road was Whitegates (much enlarged over the years) and next door was reputedly a foundry owned by Arthur Austin (4). It was not until 1890 that The Red House was built (4). New cottages were also few: four on Hauxton Road immediately beyond the brewery, and four on Newton Road built between 1894 and 1907 (4).

 

Most of the building was within the old village, but on a very limited scale until the later 19th century, Ingleside on Church Street being the only house of note of the earlier part of the century. The west side of the High Street remained almost unchanged, with the two farms, White and Hall, a few cottages at each end and what appears from the maps to be the original part of Kirby Lodge (later enlarged and now looking thoroughly Victorian). In the early years of this century eight small houses were built on the north side of Garden Fields. The east side was already more built up at Enclosure, but this was intensified between Kings Farm and The Plough Public House by a terrace of nine cottages, built in two sections between about 1870 and 1890, a semi-detached pair of about the same period, and a detached house. This must have entailed the demolition of some earlier houses. Kings Farmhouse itself was much enlarged. On the north side of Church Street most of the building, except for Church House, immediately to the west of the Church, was in replacement of cottages which had had to be demolished or had burnt down, witness The Chequers Public House and the adjacent cottage, which were rebuilt in the late 1860s after fire had demolished the ale-house and surrounding cottages (4). Cintra Lodge was built on the south side before 1885 on land belonging to Charles Finch, and St. Andrews (no 16) was built in 1908 on the site of the Three Horse Shoes Public House, which had had its licence taken away in 1907 as superfluous. The only other major change was the demolition, in 1845, of the Wale Mausoleum on the corner of Church Street and Whittlesford Road, when the bodies were transferred to a crypt under the Church.

 

The west side of Whittlesford Road (or Back Lane) remained virtually undeveloped. except for a house built in 1838 (4) on the corner of The Thoroughfare (later The Terrace) and a terrace of cottages on the north side of The Thoroughfare. However, Pound Yard, opposite the grounds of Shelford Hall, was bought by Col. R.G. Wale in about 1850, when it consisted of several "wretched over-crowded hovels" (4). The worst were demolished and those remaining were repaired and in some cases extended.

The pair of cottages at the innermost end of the Yard and later known as Studio Cottage were converted and extended in 1862 to make a reading room for the labouring men and a school room for boys, and were used for classes of various kinds until 1909. The animal pound, next to No 14, from which the Yard derived its name, was removed about 1859, and the stocks earlier (4). Across the road a new Shelford Hall was built in

about 1851 by Col. R.G. Wale, in the grand Victorian Gothic style, as the old hall was considered too dilapidated for his new wife to live in (4). The stable and coach house block remains and gives an indication.

 

Much of the old hall was demolished, leaving the north front and wing to form a lodge to the new hall. The long white brick boundary wall was built at about the same time. Rebuilding was also proceeding at the Rectory, but in this case the old house was demolished and a new Rectory built on the same site in 1858.

 

So there was no great expansion of the village, merely, on the one hand, an affirmation of their position by the wealthier families in the form of building or extending 'suitable' houses, although many of them, including the Manor House and Old Shelford Hall, seem to have been let for considerable periods. On the other hand, a handful of cottages were built over a century for the labouring people. It is clear, however, from descriptions given by Miss Wale and from Manor Court entries, that many of the older cottages were divided into two or more dwellings at various times. This would, no doubt, have been necessary in the earlier half of the 19th century, when the population grew dramatically: 220 in 1801; 357 in 1811; 438 in 1821; to a high of 580 in 1851 (6). Lyson's Magna Brittania records that all the 47 houses were inhabited in 1801, occupied by 61 families, so there must already have been a sharing of houses, and there is no evidence of any considerable building during this period.

 

In common with other rural areas, Little Shelford suffered from the agricultural depression of the second half of the 19th century, the population falling from 580 in 1851 to 474 in 1861, then more slowly to 441 in 1901. In the mid-1850s, between 50 and 60 people left Little Shelford and Stapleford for Sydney, Australia (7), and the depression made Hall Farm, the largest farm in the village and owned by the Wales, difficult to let, so that the farmhouse had to be let separately as a residence (4).

 

The main farms throughout this period were Hall Farm (owned by the Wales) at about 400 acres; Rectory Farm at about 250 acres; Manor Farm with about 150 acres; White Farm (owned by the Wales) about 70 acres; Sainsfoins (also briefly Wale property) about 50 acres; and Westfield with 18 acres. Kings Farm, although one of the old farms of the village, was probably by this time no longer a farm proper, but a gentleman's residence with paddocks. This estate also belonged to the Wale family. The amount of land under crop varied little, 840 acres at the middle of the 19th century to 900 acres in 1905, the main crops being barley, wheat and oats. However the composition of the livestock herds supported by the permanent grassland varied considerably: in 1866 there were about 80 cattle, 240 pigs and over 1,000 sheep, whereas in 1905 there were approximately 106 dairy cattle, 124 beef cattle, no recorded pigs, and 700 sheep (8).

 

In 1830 there were about 70 labouring men and boys, whom the farmers agreed to employ according to an assessment of the value of the farm (9), but not all the villagers were totally dependent on agriculture for a livelihood. Post Office and Kelly's Directories describe about twenty people as traders, including a butcher, baker, bootmakers, wheelwright, blacksmith, carpenter, bricklayers, several shopkeepers, alehouse keepers, and the ropemaker. These would have made it quite a busy little village, more industrialised than it is today. Several houses still bear their shop window fronts, including 6 Church Street, the village shop until 1962; 15 High Street which was the bakery for many years, and 65 High Street, once a sweet shop. The wheelwright's shop has gone, but the final remains of the blacksmith's forge can be seen still in the form of a collapsed clay bat wall along the northern edge of Garden Fields. Of the ale houses which lasted throughout most of the period The Chequers, The Prince Regent and The Plough remain. The Three Horse Shoes in Church Street was de-licenced in 1907 and demolished, and the King William IV at the southern end of High Street lasted until 1910, when it too lost its licence as superfluous to the needs of the village, and was converted by the owners, the Misses Wale, to a private dwelling.

 

The ropeworks, situated behind the houses on the north side of Church Street, must have been a considerable feature of the village and has left us a drive to a modern bungalow, still called The Ropewalk (part of a path reaching almost to the Church, where ropes were laid out). and some of the buildings now used as private outhouses, but not the chimney. which was demolished in the 1960s. The firm, run by the Gall family, also made sacks and tarpaulin from the mid 19th century and distilled tar from its latter years.

 

Those men who were labourers or without regular employment were hired by the Parish Surveyor for road repairs and ditch scouring, the former of which seems to have been a fairly constant occupation. The introduction to the Surveyor's Accounts 1840-42 (10) reports that the extent of roads to be repaired by the Parish was 2.5 miles, and that about two miles had been repaired on Newton Road, New Road and Clay Pit Road and in the parish. New Road appears to be the (Bridle) path opposite Rectory Farm. Gravel and stones (probably flints) were used for filling up the ruts, collected from Lay Grove field (the public pit) and Mr. Baker's meadow and field - this would account for the apparent remains of excavations in the meadow to the north of Dernford Mill footpath and the meadow further north known to Miss F. L. Wale as 'The Stone diggings' (4). Other fields north-west of the village were also used. This method of road repair continued into the 20th century until the advent of the improved surface of tar with stones rolled in it (4).

 

The Turnpike Road was taken over by the County Council in 1871. Drainage was also an important factor in life and various of the Surveyor's accounts refer to cleansing out ditches. Problems must, however, have been fairly severe by 1855 since the Committee of Improvement commissioned a survey on the drainage from the Wellhead Springs to and along the High Street to the river. The Surveyor, R. Harwood, reported that all the culverts along the High Street were "undulating and obstructive" and recommended the re-cutting of virtually the whole drain (11).

 

The railway came to the parish in 1846, (*actually 1851) when Eastern Counties Railways planned the line from Cambridge to Royston and Ware, across Manor Farm, Hauxton Road, and the fields to the west. This cut through arable land and garden allotments, but caused the building of a cottage - the crossing-keeper's cottage - since there was no station in the village. The slow trains provided some amusement for the local children, but were otherwise noted only for the occasional fire caused by sparks from the engine (4). R.G. Baker's survey of Cambridgeshire, published in 1821, shows a proposed canal starting from Whaddon, crossing the parish west and south of the village, joining another proposed canal east of the river. This never materialised; perhaps it was overtaken by the railways.

 

The village was plentifully wooded, independent descriptions talking of the number of elms in the hedgerows (virtually all the large elms have gone, but suckers are regenerating). Both the Lord of the Manor and the Wale family started plantations, the whole of the tree belt along the east side of the Whittlesford Road and by the brook west of the river are due to the Wales. The family was also responsible for providing allotments on the south side of The Terrace for the cottages opposite, which lasted until the 1960s, and for the general allotments at Garden Fields which were first provided in 1880 and are still in use. The cricket club also had a ground, courtesy of the Wale estate, within the grounds of the Hall. There does not, however, seem to have been any area set aside for general recreation.

 

The Church, a focal point in any village, appears to have been quite dilapidated by the beginning of the 19th century, and two major feats of restoration were carried out, in 1854 and 1879 (12). The main work in 1854 was the opening up of a new Chancel arch, but in 1879 the soil of the churchyard, which had built up over the centuries, was lowered, the chancel and tower buttresses rebuilt, the nave and roofs restored, the tower and spire repaired, and a new porch built. Flint and pebble were used on the exterior walls and the restoration designed to harmonise as far as possible with the 1308 work. It was during these restorations that the grave covers, now incorporated in the walls of the porch, were discovered within the structure. The graveyard was extended in 1913 (14) and the old boundary can still be seen.

 

The Congregational Chapel, set back off the High Street, was probably rebuilt in 1881 (12) on the same site as the barn or meeting house used by the congregation since at least about 1823 (13) (14).

 

The parish was still being affected by enclosure in 1854, when the Newton Parish Award reallocated three of the enclosures originally allotted in Little Shelford in the Harston and Hauxton Award. But in 1907 it looked firmly into the twentieth century with the approval by the Parish Council of the first telephone wires.

So the parish in its first 100 years after enclosure showed a modest expansion only, related mainly to the needs of the families already associated with it, with some building of country residences by the emerging middle classes. People from outside rented houses in the village, but there was no call for the larger scale development witnessed by its neighbour, Great Shelford (16). It was a small, self-contained community effectively protected by the river from the influences affecting Great Shelford, and that much further from Cambridge. In this it was probably typical of many of the smaller villages in the area.

 

Plan No 4 shows the parish at about 1910.

​

POST ENCLOSURE DEVELOPMENTS – 19th and 20th CENTURIES.

NOTES

1. Minutes of Little Shelford Manor Court 8th May 1823

2. Lease between Charles Beales and William Gifford Wragg CUL Doc 686. Sale particulars 1842 CUL PSQ 18-4

3. Cambridge Chronicle 1st February 1833

4. F.L. Wale – In Memory of the Sounds of Shelford Parva

5. Sale particulars 18th June 1881 CUL Mans PSQ 18.331

6. Census returns

7. Cambridge Independent Press 25th July 1857

8. Victoria County History viii, pp 222-4

9. Overseers Entry Book 1814-30 CRO P 138/12/1

10. Surveyors Accounts 1840-42 CRO P 138/21/1

11. Report on Drainage 10th October 1855 to the Committee of Improvement

CRO P 138/24/1-3

12. Miscellaneous notes on Church, CRO P 138/6/1 and P 138/28/4a

13. Victoria County History viii p 227

14. Manor Court Records 19th February 1827 CRO 305/m

15. Parish Council Minutes 14th October 1907

16. From Domesday to Dormitory - C.C.Taylor and E.M.B.Class

 

THE MODERN VILLAGE - POST 1918

The earliest housing development after the First World War was that built 'for the working classes' by the Chesterton Rural District Council in about 1921 (1). These were four semi-detached houses on Hauxton Road, immediately north of The Ropewalk and the first properties to be built beyond that point. Mr C.F. Clay, the Lord of the Manor, had been reluctant two years earlier to break up this field (2), but the first breach having been made, the whole frontage up to the railway line was gradually built up over the next fifty years with good-sized detached dwellings. Opposite, the largest number of houses, sixteen in all, is Council owned, built around 1930 (1) with later individual additions out to the parish boundary (and one beyond). The Council was also responsible for building on the north side of Newton Road as far as the public drain. Six more Council Houses were built, in Garden Fields and at 4/6 High Street, on land bought in 1925 and 1937. The next Council development was on the Whittlesford Road, with ten houses fronting the road and eight in Beech Close being built in 1949 and the estate completed in 1961 with a further 14 bungalows and four houses (1). The only large-scale private development has been Courtyards, an estate of some 40 dwellings built in the early 1960s.

​

Apart from two isolated houses - South Courts on Whittlesford Road and No 40 Newton Road, all other building has been within the area already built on at enclosure, infilling on large gardens, some former fields, and on the sites of former buildings. The infilling has been most noticeable on the eastern end of Church Street and the western side of High Street, both of which were relatively open at the start of this century. Several houses towards the northern end of High Street, opposite Kings Farm, appear to have been built just before or after the Second World War, but the rest of the infilling along these two stretches has been within about the last twenty years, and frequently of considerable size. One of the largest is Alnwick. The strip to the south of The Terrace, although within the village at enclosure, was until 1965 outside the area permitted for development and so has only since then been built on. Manor Road to the north has also seen building: the new house for Manor Farm was built in the 1950s, the farmland having been sold separately from the farmhouse (which had been separated from the Manor House in 1879 (3), and the new Rectory was built in the grounds of the 19th century residence in 1962 (4).

​

Some of the older features of the village have disappeared, such as the cottages on Hauxton Road next to the Prince Regent and opposite; those on the opposite corner of High Street and Church Street, which created a difficult junction at this point, but which still existed in the 1960s; and those on the north side of The Terrace. These were among the smallest cottages in the village and probably had a far more crowded air than any of the modern houses - hence a slum clearance scheme in 1956. The remaining C19 terraces, Nos 35-49 High Street and Ley Grove Cottages, have been modernised. The 19th century Shelford Hall has also gone, destroyed by fire in 1928*, after which the Lodge was enlarged again to its present dimensions to make a family home (see over), although it was used by the Army during the war as an Officers' Mess and offices (15).

​

Also vanished are the blacksmith's forge (closed in the 1920s), the ropeworks chimney (demolished in the early 1960s) and the brewery on the corner of Hauxton Road.

​

The roads were first surfaced with tarmac in the 1930s (5) and electricity and mains water soon followed. The water supply was, however, only supported by the Parish Council in 1936 after a survey of the residents, since so many households had private wells. Those not so fortunate obtained their water from the parish pumps which, by 1936, were near Ivy Cottage on Whittlesford Road, at the Prince Regent corner, on Hauxton Road at the end of the Council Houses, at the High Street end of The Terrace, and near Westfield at the south end of High Street (6). Of these, only the one at the end of The Terrace still survives, a 19th century black cast iron structure, restored in 1981 (1).

The one at the Prince Regent corner, erected in 1908 for the Jubilee (7) in front of the blacksmith's shop, was demolished in 1965 after a car reversed into it (1). Main sewerage did not, however, come to the village until 1959 (1), the same year in which the Parish Council arranged for 15 street lamps (8).

​

Some industry has remained in the village continuously, Walker's Builders presumably being the successor to the 19th century carpenter, Mr Walker, who had his shop on about the same site. and there is also a joinery firm. Prams and similar equipment are sold in the High Street, and there is still a village shop, albeit on a new site. The ropeworks was used until the 1950s and in 1957 were bought by a manufacturer of lenses and optical instruments. By 1974 they were in use by a small firm making domestic wrought iron fittings, but now appear to be converted for domestic purposes. Three of the larger houses are now used for educational purposes. Farming, of course, continues to occupy most of the land. Barley and wheat have continued to be the main crops (10) together with oats, sugar beet from the 1950s and, in the last few years, oilseed rape. By 1955 there were few sheep, but about 80 dairy cattle, over 200 beef cattle, and large numbers of poultry (10), but by 1977 there was but a single suckling beef herd (11). This herd is still in evidence, as are a few pigs. There are no sheep to be seen, and many of the meadows are grazed by horses and ponies.

​

Manor Farm has continued to exist in its position, almost cut off from the rest of the village, but White Farm and Rectory Farm have been bought by the Fordham family and are farmed with Hall Farm. Much of the land belonging to Kings Farm has been sold for building (including Beech Close) while the amount of land in the Sainsfoins estate has varied from 26½ acres in 1914 (12) to 163 acres in 1981 (13) There has, however, been comparatively little change in the field boundaries, as shown on Plan 5.

​

The biggest change the farmers have had to cope with is the building of the M11 motorway, which has eliminated some fields and divided others, curving as it does through the south western section of the parish. The village itself is little affected by the road now, but had to suffer gravel extraction at Rectory Farm, behind and to the south of Ley Grove Cottages; just over the boundary in Whittlesford; and at Shelford End Plantation. Strong protests were made in 1977 both about the effect on Ley Grove Cottages, which were virtually on an island during the work, and on the village generally from lorry traffic, but to no avail.(14). The field by Ley Grove Cottages is now restored to agriculture, although the ground is uneven; the adjacent land in Whittlesford has been flooded to form a lake; and Shelford Plantation exists no more.

 

The population grew slowly but steadily from the beginning of the century, from 465 in 1911 to 503 in 1931, 658 in 1951, 884 in 1971 and 880 in 1981 (15), suggesting that by and large expansion has merely kept pace with a natural increase in population. Or perhaps the population has been kept in check by restrictions on building, since the policy of the Planning Authority for the parish is one of restraint, channelling major development to Great Shelford and Stapleford. The centre of the village was designated a Conservation Area in 1975, thus giving greater control over the style of development.

​

Further repairs were carried out to the Church between 1951 and 1961, including the restoration of outside walls (16) but the chapel closed in the 1970s, although the locked building remains. The allotments at Garden Fields are still used, and now called Blennie's Patch as they were sold to the Parish Council in 1981 by Blennie Powell, a descendent of the Wales (17), but these are now the only ones. The Wale Recreation Ground was given to the village by Miss N.C.W. Powell in 1947 (1) and is to be found behind the wall of the Shelford Hall grounds. The Village Hall first appeared in 1918 when a small wooden recreation hall was brought from the Whittlesford Military Hospital by the Wale sisters, in memory of their sister, Frederika, to a site in Church Street given by C.F. Clay (Lord of the Manor) (7) The present structure was built by Mr Clay and is dated 1925.

​

As throughout the 19th century, the modern story has been one of only modest expansion, mainly along Hauxton Road, with two small estates on Whittlesford Road. There is less open space than there was at the beginning of this century, but there is still a considerable amount of open land in the middle of the village, in the form of Camping Close and the meadows towards the south end of the High Street. Camping Close was, in fact, suggested as a recreation ground by the Planning Authority in 1935, but was rejected by the Parish Council as unsuitable. (18). It remains in the ownership of the Wale family. The excesses of the 20th century have passed

​

Little Shelford by, although the gravel digging must have been extremely distressing at the time. Unfortunately, the parish did receive its share of Dutch Elm Disease and many of the tress in the meadows in the centre of the village have been cut down, leaving a much more open aspect.

Plan 6 shows the parish at the present time.

 

THE MODERN VILLAGE POST - 1918

NOTES

1. District Council Records.

2. Parish Council minutes 11th July 1919

3.  Particulars of Sale 1879 CUL Maps PSQ 18.318, 1916 PSQ y 19.28

4. 'The Sower' August 1962 CRO P138/28/6

5. Group Capt. Altham - talk on childhood memories

6. Parish Council minutes 16th July 1936

7. Miss F.L. Wale - 'In Memory of the Sounds of Shelford Parva'

8. 'The Sower' November 1959 CRO P138/28/6

9. The East Anglian Magazine vol 26

Cambridgeshire, Huntingdonshire and Peterborough Life April 1974

10. V.C.H. viii pp222-4

11. 1977 Village Guide - Mr Fordham

12. Sale Particulars 20th June 1914 CUL Maps PSQ x 19.63

13. Sale Particulars 1981 CRO SP/138/11

14. Cambridge Evening News 28th September 1977, 22nd September 1978

15. Census returns and County Council statistics

16. Church history and guide

17. 1982 Village Guide

18. Parish Council minutes 14th February 1935.

 

THE FUTURE

As far as building development is concerned, Little Shelford is unlikely to expand to any great extent within the foreseeable future because of the restrictive Structure Plan policies. If, however. Stansted Airport does develop, the village may well feel its share of the pressures. In farming, too. there is little indication of drastic changes; some fields might be combined, crops may change, but at present only one part of the long-standing meadows has been taken into arable use in recent years.

​

There is, however. one major change imminent - to the parish boundaries. The District Council has held a review of the parish boundaries within its area, and the proposals affecting Little Shelford have been accepted by all affected parishes except Sawston, which objects to the principle of the exercise. The proposals have been accepted by the Boundary Commission and the decision of the Secretary of State is expected later this year.

​

The purpose of the review is to achieve boundaries consistent with modern conditions and therefore easy to delineate, but it is ironic that in Little Shelford's case much of the land to be swapped between parishes is that which for so long was shared between the four adjoining parishes. Plan Seven shows the proposed changes, but the major alteration will be the use of the M11 as a boundary with Harston and Hauxton. That will at least allow two properties which are just over the boundary and distant from their respective parishes of Harston and Hauxton to be taken into Little Shelford. The impact of the proposals will be to transfer 30 acres and one property from Harston to Little Shelford; 60 acres and one property from Hauxton and Seven acres from Sawston; whilst 17 acres will transfer from Little Shelford to Sawston and 3.6 acres to Great Shelford. Perhaps we should welcome this 'rationalisation', but future generations may be hard put to understand some of the features of their landscape.

 

CONCLUSION

This summary of the changes in the landscape of Little Shelford indicates how little the village has altered since medieval times. It has expanded only slightly from the 17th century village. Development probably went naturally to Great Shelford as being more convenient, but in recent years has been deliberately channelled there and away from Little Shelford. Also, the compact nature of the parish made it unnecessary for farms to be built out in the fields.

​

The ages of the Turnpike Road, the Railway and the Motorway have impinged on the parish, but only to a limited extent. Of greater impact have been the more personal influences: the early enclosures, presumably by the Lord of the Manor; the contributions of the Lords of the Manor to the Church; and the influence of the Wale family which permeates the whole of the 18th and 19th centuries and continues into the 20th, in land ownership, tree planting, and building for the villagers.

​

The old cottages which had degenerated into slums have gone, and the village has a generally prosperous air, and an atmosphere which leads all article writers to emphasise its "rural charm".

 

FURTHER WORK

Much more work needs to be done on the earlier history of the village. Documents available in Cambridge include the Calendars of Court and other Rolls, Ely Diocesan Records, and the pocket books of Thomas Wale 1701 - 1796 (CRO R81/63) on which only a start was made. Others are held in the Public Record Office and the British Museum. Systematic fieldwalking could prove very valuable in view of the number of crop marks. Little fieldwalking was possible during the winter of 1982/3 because of ground conditions, although some medieval pottery was found behind White Farm, but approaches have been made to farmers for the 1983/4 season. Understandably, farmers are hesitant about risking attracting unauthorised persons onto their land.

​

Closer study of the older properties in the village might also reveal greater age, but would require expert knowledge. Sketch surveys do not reveal any great need for detailed survey work, but a ridge running across one meadow nearly parallel to High Street might repay closer inspection, and an accurate survey could indicate whether the hollows in the meadow in the junction of High Street and Whittlesford Road are merely tree lines and ponds.

​

Specific points on which I would like to do further work are the road system; the history of the enclosure of the Manor and Shelford Hall estates; and the relationship with adjoining parishes, in particular the story behind the intercommon.

 

SOURCES

PRINTED

  • Victoria County History of Cambridgeshire

  • Cambridge Antiquarian Society Publications Vol L.90.1, LV. p 59, XXIII, XXXIV

  • The Domesday Geography of Eastern England - H.C. Darley (1971)

  • Feudal Cambridgeshire - W. Farrer (1920)

  • History of Cambridgeshire - E. Conybeare (1897)

  • Magna Brittania - Lyson (1808)

  • Roads and Tracks of Britain - C.C. Taylor

  • The Cambridgeshire Landscape - C.C. Taylor

  • English Field Names : A Dictionary - J. Field

  • My Grandfather's Pocket Book A.D. 1701 to 1796 - Rev H.J. Wale M.A. (1883)

  • Post Office and Kelly's Directories and Gazeteer

  • Inclosure Acts - Harston and Hauxton 38 Geo III (1798) CRO R/60/24/3/1 p 40 and Little Shelford 53 Geo III (1813) CRO R 53/17/13

  • Turnpike Acts (Stump Cross - Cambridge)

  • Gentleman's Magazine 1799, 1802

  • East Anglian Notes and Queries 1895-6 1897

  • East Anglian Magazine Vol 26

  • Cambridgeshire, Huntingdonshire and Peterborough Life April 1974

  • Church Guide and History

  • Parish and Church Magazines

  • Little Shelford Village Guide 1977, 1979, 1982.

  • ​

S O U R C E S

MANUSCRIPT

• Inclosure Awards and Maps -

  1. Harston and Hauxton 25.1.1802 R54/17/1 CRO QRDc 3

  2. Little Shelford 23.2.1815 CRO QRDz 7 p.470, QRDc 24

  3. Whittlesford 17.8.1815 CRO

  4. Newton 19.10.1854 CRO

• Inclosure Papers for Harston and Hauxton - CUL Doc 639(2), 639(1), ADD 6011, 6013

• The Open Fields of Cambridgeshire - M.R. Postgate CUL PhD 4796

• Various documents of the Church, mainly about repairs. CRO P 138/28/4a, P138/5/4-6, P138/6/1-11, R57/24/3-16

• Terrier of lands of Will Stevenson (undated) CRO R53/4/33

• Papers relating to Wale family land CRO R51/17/24a-k

• Various conveyances, estate releases, mortgages, sale particulars and leases - County Record Office and University Library

• Little Shelford Manor Court Books and Rolls 1699-1891 CRO 67/68 and 305/m

• Surveyor's Accounts 1840-42 CRO P138/21/1

• Overseers' Entry Book 1814-30 CRO P138/12/1

• Report on Drainage 10.10.1855 for Committee of Improvement CRO P138/24/1-3

• Plans and Schedules for Eastern Counties Railway - Cambridge, Royston and Ware 1846 CRO Q RUm 22

• Little Shelford - a Study in Conservation - J.A. Quinlan (1976)

• Text of talk by Group Capt. Altham on childhood memories at about 1916.

​

SOURCES

VILLAGE SOURCES

• Group Capt. Altham – Member of the Wale family and Chairman of the Parish Council

• Mr Fordham – Hall Farm

• Mrs Luff – Clerk to the Parish Council

• Messrs Howard – Manor Farm

• Mr A.K. Dorman – Manor Farm House

• Mrs Y.W. Loke – Manor House.

Four maps to be added here

Susan C. May

January 1983

 

A * in the words signifies a factual error

P2 SM states the new hall was burnt down in 1928 – it was actually 1929.

P5 SM states the bakery started in 1841 and closed in 1976. It was actually 1974.

P20 Danford is now known as Dernford.

P24 SM states the railway came to the parish in 1846 – it was actually 1851.

Presentation to Little Shelford Local History Society

 

Good Evening. Thank you for inviting me.

​

I'd like to talk to you tonight about the Social History of Little Shelford.

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But I can't, because I'm not a Social Historian.

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Ten years ago I did the Extra Mural Board Certificate in Landscape History, looking at the physical development of the village, the archeology and the architecture, rather than at the people who lived here.

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What I will do tonight, though, is to tell you a little of what I learnt then, about the way the village developed, and hope that some of you might be interested enough to carry on and study the Social History of Little Shelford yourselves.

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First of all let's get our bearings with a plan of the parish.

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So what's in a name ?

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Shelford means shallow ford, and from earliest prehistory, settlements grew up around fords.

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There were a lot of settlements along the Cam valley before the Romans came, and if you look at the aerial photographs, in the Aerial Photography Unit, in Free School Lane, you can see a mass of crop marks on the Manor Farm fields, right up to the rear of the church.

These crop marks are differences in the height or the ripeness of the crop, where it is growing over old ditches, or walls, for instance, that have long since vanished. There's nothing to see on the ground, but they show up well from the air, so that you can trace ancient enclosure boundaries, field boundaries and tracks.

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One of the tracks went to the river, where a mill certainly existed later.

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There are also field boundaries, and a track between Hauxton and Newton Roads, and two enclosures in the field behind White's Farm.

The enclosures show up in photographs as dark marks, encircling a piece of land with a gap for an entrance. Several of these are D shaped, and were probably Iron Age farms.

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Other enclosures are rectangular, and are probably Roman. I've been told of Roman pot and coins being found in the fields around the village, and the Cambridge Archaeological Survey found an industrial site just outside the village when the M 11 was built.

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These early settlements probably extended onto what are now the Manor grounds, to take full advantage of the ford.

But the Romans came and went, and didn't really leave anything you can look at.

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After the Romans went, the Dark Ages started, and the Saxons arrived, a hairy lot from the Northern French coast, bent on rape and pillage, but also settling.

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The Saxon settlement also developed near the ford - this time on a West-East alignment, on the access to the river - roughly where Church Street is now, running straight to the ford through the present Manor grounds.

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This was probably part of a track from Foxton which vanishes at the end of Garden Fields.

***************************

The Domesday Boke actually tells us a few facts about the village before the Norman Conquest, as it notes how many people had held land. . . "in the time of King Edward".

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The two Shelfords were lumped together, probably because the Abbot of Ely owned more or less everything, but have been disentangled - certainly we know that in 1066 the Abbot of Ely held much of the land and a church (monasterium).

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Some of his land was worked directly by Church employees, conceivably monks, and other land was held by seven sokemen - free tenants of an overlord.

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Seventeen other Sokemen held smaller amounts of land from various Lords. We can't really convert the measurements - hides, virgates, and so forth - into acres, because they were really tax assessments.

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The Church was probably on the present site, and in the 19th century two grave covers were found, and built into the outside walls of the porch, one on either side. These have typical Anglo-Saxon interlaced decoration. One is certainly Saxon, but the other is possibly immediately post-Conquest.

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In 1904 some late Saxon burials were found near the river, in a sandpit opposite Great Shelford mill.

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Two brass shoulder brooches, a Kentish metal buckle, bits of rusty instruments and painted amber beads were found and given to the Museum. There was a small excavation in the same place in 1934, which found. . . absolutely nothing.

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And that about wraps it up for our Saxons.

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In 1080 the first bits of the present church were built, a nave and possibly a chancel. You can still see remnants in the North wall, with a Norman doorway and window.

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It's not clear who built this church. By 1086 Hardwin de Scalers had taken over (possibly seized) much of the Ely church land in the village... He also seized the church.

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Altogether — and Hardwin seems to have been the Lord for the whole village — he had enough land for 12 ploughs and 2 oxen, though there were 14 ploughs there — and meadow for 6 ploughs, plus pasture for the cattle.

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Nineteen Villeins — bonded peasants who had to do work for the Lord, but who also had a share of the common fields; and six Bordars — unfree smallholders — made up the village.

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There's also a reference to 2 mills in the joint villages, but no indication of where they were.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

The village first got a mention on its own account — as Shelford Parva — in 1228.

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By that time, 6 generations of Hardwin de Scaler's family had hung on to the village, until Lucy de Scalers inherited the lot in 1231.

She married Baldwin de Freville, and started 300 years of the de Frevilles as Lords of the Manor.

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It was one of the de Frevilles who built the chancel and founded the tower of the church in 1308. There are still monuments to the family in the church — you've probably noticed.

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By 1279 the records showed a population of 60, in 62 properties, all clustered around the church.

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The Manor's own farm included 300 acres of arable, 30 acres of meadow, and 10 acres of pasture, and in the rest of the parish there was about 340 acres of arable land, 45 acres of meadow and 6 acres of common moor.

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The Rector had a house, probably immediately North East of the church, and we now get a Manor House too. Only don't get too attached to it — it gets pulled down pretty regularly over the next six hundred years.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Then the 14th century arrived, and along came the Black Death, the introduction of large sheep herds, and the population dropping like flies.

 

In 1327, only 36 inhabitants were being taxed. Whether this was because the figures were worked out differently - sound familiar? - or because the population had actually halved in the early years of the 14th century is not obvious, but this was a period of general decline. The next figures I have are for 1524 when 34 people paid the taxes and 1562, when there were 32 households. These suggest Little Shelford was just as badly hit by death, disease and destruction as the rest of the country.

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By this time the ford and the marshy land around it were crossed by wooden bridges, and causeway, and in 1398 the village had its very own hermit, one John Lucas, who lived under the bridge. His job was to collect money for bridge repairs.

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Remember the name - shallow ford - whether ford or bridge, that crossing was terribly important, and over the next two hundred years, all through the 15th and 16th centuries, many inhabitants left bequests for the repair of the bridges.

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Around 1450 the nave and tower of the church were partly rebuilt and the chantry and south chapel built.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

By 1521 the Manor estate had lots of enclosed meadow and some open meadow, along the river valley. There were 3 open fields, called, rather unoriginally, Wheat Field, South Field and Home Field.

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By now, buildings were starting to spread along the High Street, with the first parts of Hall Farm and King's Farmhouse being built - though at that time these were just small cottages. Each farm had some enclosed land, as well as land in the open fields.

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We're in the sixteenth century now, Martin Luther has just been outlawed, Henry VIII has dissolved the monasteries, Sulieman the Magnificent has taken Belgrade, the potato has just reached England, and Little Shelford has got a water mill. This was by the small island called The Boot, which was actually formed by the backwater of the mill.

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The farmers of the Manor had to bring their corn to the mill to be ground. There's still a mound there today where the mill used to be. In the sixteenth century there was also a forge, on Manor Farm, behind the rectory.

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In 1521 the Manor house had a hall, 2 parlours, a great chamber and a little chamber, typically Medieval.

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Then in 1577 the Manor was sold to Alderman John Bankes, who promptly made a killing by selling the house and part of the land to the beautifully named Sir Tobias Palavicino.

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But early in the 17th century Sir Tobias pulled the lot down and built a new house of brick on the same site. This one had a 3 storey main front, two gabled wings, and between them a colonnade with a 2 storey porch... And 25 hearths! Presumably he had servants to make up the fires in the mornings.

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Sir Tobias also dammed the river to make a moat, which must have annoyed the owner of the flour mill in Great Shelford, because we know that he had to make a straight cut to feed his mill, as the damming had affected it.

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Sir Tobias Palavacino sold the new Manor house when, it was hardly finished, and in 1655 the whole Manor was in the hands of Gilbert Wigmore, the rector of Little Shelford.

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By 1615 the open (arable) fields were called White Field, Middle Field and Danford Field, names which lasted until the Parliamentary enclosures. White Field extended into Newton and Harston, and parts were shared with those villages.

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Little Shelford, Newton, Harston and Hauxton shared Mount Field, which lay mainly in Harston. Parts of Middle Field and Danford Field were shared with Whittlesford. There were open meadows along the river, May Common just south of the village, Back Moor to the south west, and Hog Moor between the Hauxton and Newton roads.

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This meant that in places the boundaries between parishes were uncertain. Where they were already fixed, however, traces of the boundaries can still be found — for example, part of the boundary with Newton, described in the later Enclosure Award as "along the ancient meer" is visible as a ridge and obviously older hedge,

​

SEE PLAN

and the boundary with Whittlesford is a bank with trees. The boundaries between old enclosures and open fields also still exist, often as ditches.

By this time there were 300 sheep in the parish, and in the 1620s saffron was grown.

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In 1630 - when Charles I was still on the throne, and the Thirty Years War was still only halfway through, and the Mayflower Pilgrims had already been in America for ten years... Little Shelford got a stone bridge to replace the wooden one. The cutwaters of the stone bridge can still be seen under the present eastern bridge.

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The church suffered in 1643 at the hands of "that abominable ruffian", Will Dowsing, a Parliamentary visitor, who damaged 36 cherubim and flattened the sanctuary steps. I'm not sure what happened to him, but the Church fell into decline.

​

In the 17th century there were houses in the village we can still see...

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Hall Farm was extended to an L shape, and White Farm, 7 Church Street and Carriers 11, 67 and 73 High Street and Shelford Hall were built, also possibly the Plough Public House — originally a row of cottages.

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The Plough now seems to have been re-named The Navigator, which is odd, because that name usually records the work of the canal diggers, Inland Navigators, of the Nineteenth Century, and there were no canals round here.

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The houses on the High Street had land running back to what is now Whittlesford Road, then just a back lane.

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On the corner of High Street and Church Street there were three cottages and a yard, at one time belonging to a carrier. These were sadly demolished in the 1960s.

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In 1666 there was a Great Fire in London, and there were about 40 households in Little Shelford. By 1676 there were 90 adults, so the population was slowly growing. It also seems to have been reasonably well off — in the hearth tax records between 1661 and 1670 we learn that only 10-20% of the houses had a single hearth — the majority, 40-49% had two.

​

.........................................

In 1700 Gregory Wale, who already owned Harston or Tiptofts Manor, bought a mansion house called Shelford Hall, and 16 acres of enclosed land from Gilbert Wigmore, Lord of the Manor.

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The Hall was altered in 1764, but only the north wing remains.

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In 1775 the Wale family mausoleum was built in Camping Close, opposite the church, but this was demolished in 1845 and the bodies removed to the church vaults because of problems with grave robbers.

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The Camping Close, also known as Angel Close and Champion Close, probably got its name because it was an area for village sport and recreation.

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The obelisk on Maggots (or St. Margarets) Mound (or Obelisk Hill) in Harston was built by his friends in memory of Gregory Wale, J.P., Conservator of the Cam, who died in 1739.

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In 1727 the back lane was turnpiked, as part of the road from Great Shelford Pound to Whittlesford. This was part of the larger Stumps Cross to Cambridge scheme, with tolls providing the money for upkeep. There was a turnpike cottage for the toll-collector on the Great Shelford side of the bridges.

​

During the eighteenth century there was good news, and there was bad news...

 

The good news is that Hall Farm was completed to a square, and White's and King's Farmhouses were altered. The bad news is that in March 1743, a Mr. Burling, burning malt at his malthouse on the west side of town, started a terrible conflagration that burnt down 10 houses on and around Church Street in 4 hours.

​

The fire stopped at the house next to the cross, very near the church. All through the century there are references in manor court records to cottages being lately burnt down. Which is why there are so few surviving houses from before the 18th century.

​

Numbers 8 to 14, Whittlesford Road, date from the 18th century, and are all that remains of the properties that used to form Pound Yard, where the animal pound and the stocks were... Number 16 is of a similar date... still exists.

​

In 1745 the Manor House and estate was bought by William Finch, a Cambridge ironmonger, who commissioned a survey in 1748. Happily this shows a building... the estate was about half the size it was in 1279.

​

The survey shows much of its land being used to grow cinquefoil, a form of Potentilla used as a cash crop, and names the Old Mill Yard, and built a new one. This was the basis of the present house. At the time it had a plain central block, refaced in the 19th century. Some material from the old house, including a 17th century door and Palavicini's coat of arms, were incorporated into the 2 side pavilions.

​

William Finch also filled in most of the moat, and possibly built the boundary wall at about the same time. He may also have built the farmhouse at the same time, or refaced an earlier building to match.

​

In 1760 the east end of the chancel of the church was rebuilt.

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But by now Little Shelford had its share of dissenters, and in 1759 a house was licensed for protestant worship by the United Brethren, and in 1761 another house was licensed for Methodist worship.

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In 1782 the eastern river bridge was rebuilt, and its 3 rounded brick arches survive.

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In 1787 William Salt of Great Shelford built a dam, and an overflow of water, at the river head, above King's Mill, and opened a ditch through the town meadows, into the Wale meadow and fish pond, onwards to Mr. Finch's river and fish pond. The cost of this was borne between Mr. Wale, Mr. Finch and the parish.

​

At this point in the Eighteenth Century — 1789 — George Washington was President of America, remember... there was a Revolution breaking out in France... Mozart was composing his great Requiem — but in Little Shelford more important things were happening — in 1787, Amy Gunner got the licence renewed for her alehouse, the Three Horseshoes. Sadly, this was pulled down early this century, and No. 16 Church Street — St. Andrews — was built on the site.

​

At this point we have a fairly good idea of the occupations of the villagers. Besides the maltster, which I mentioned earlier, there were ropemakers — hence the name of The Ropewalk — and sack weavers. We also hear of carpenters, cordwainers — leather dressers to you and me — brick makers, hurdle makers and hemp dressers.

..........

By the turn of the Century, 1801, there were 47 houses, containing 61 families, and a total of 220 inhabitants.

There were no uninhabited houses.

​

So we've reached the start of the Nineteenth Century, and the Inclosures...

​

At this point the boundaries with Hauxton, Harston, Newton and Whittlesford were pretty vague. There was a lot of common land, and sheepwalks shared between two or more parishes.

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The Parliamentary enclosures, of open fields and common land, began in the late 18th century... Harston and Hauxton began the process in 1798, and Charles Wale was recorded as the owner of the sole right of sheepwalk in Little Shelford, with some 300 sheep. A number of Little Shelford people had rights in the fields that were shared between the parishes, and some of the disputed land was allocated to Little Shelford.

Little Shelford's own Inclosure Act was 1813, and was completed in 1815.

​

The Awards weren't concerned with land that was already enclosed, except where occupation conferred rights in the common fields, nor with streets in the centre of the village.

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The aim of the Acts was to take those villagers with common rights, and with many separate strips of land in the open fields, and to grant them instead ownership of blocks of land.

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At some point in the 18th century, for example, one Will Stevenson had 10 plots of meadow, 27 strips in Danford Field, 21 strips in Middlefield and 17 strips in Whitefield, some 33 acres in all.

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The total acreage of the parish was given as 1,177 acres, 1 rood, 34 perches, of which the land to be allotted was 857 acres 2 roods 11 perches. 41 people were allotted land, 26 of them getting less than 4 acres and losing their common rights for grazing animals, collecting fuel etc.

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But with the Inclosure Acts, as with the rest of life, it was a case of to them that hath shall be given, and to them that hath not shall be taken away even what they have...

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The little people got small allotments... Some were on the Moor (around the Hauxton / Newton Roads) — much of which has been built up... Other allotments were around Clay Pit Road — many of those small fields still exist... And some were around the start of the bridleway to Newton, though many of these soon taken in the Sainsfoins grounds... There were some other allotments — mostly to people associated with Newton — around the far end of the bridleway.

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And the rich got richer... Sir Charles Wale got 215 \frac{1}{2} acres of the open fields... His sister, Miss Margaretta Phillipina Wale, got 105 acres... and God, in the person of the Rector, got a handsome 245 acres. This last allotment was to compensate the poor old Rector for not getting any more tithes from the villagers... But the Award also released the Rector, from the onerous duty of keeping a bull or boar, for the use of the inhabitants!

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Four public roads were set out in the Inclosure Award — Hauxton Road, Harston Road (now Newton Road), Newton Road (a portion of the road between Newton and Whittlesford), and Thames Street Road, all in their existing course. The first three are the roads we know. Thames Street Road was an extension of High Street "out of the south end of the village to the Turnpike Road" and ran across the corner of May Common.

A public footway was made across Danford Field to Danford Mills where some of the villagers worked — this is the footpath to Sawston. Five private roads were newly made: Clay Pit Road; the track which is now the bridleway to Newton and two tracks off it for access to fields — these no longer exist; and one on the boundary with Whittlesford, running to the river — now the road to Spicers. 4 footpaths over old enclosures were stopped up.

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Before the boundary changes, ditches defined the boundary with Hauxton and Harston... Under the Hauxton and Harston Award, these were now newly dug to drain the Moors, and the Little Shelford Award ordered ditches around the old enclosures, as well as from the watering place to drain eventually into them.

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The Little Shelford Award also ordered a ditch from the Whittlesford boundary, almost along the division between Danford Field and the meadows, to meet the river near Kings Mill.

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The two Moors and May Common were made suitable for arable farming by this drainage, but the meadows seem never to have been cultivated.

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The public watering place I mentioned was allotted on May Common — now the village pond, on the left of Clay Pit Road. The pit at the end of that track was the public clay pit, and one gravel pit, on the Whittlesford Road, is now the site of Ley grove Cottages. There's another at the back of the Council houses on Hauxton Road.

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The typical post-enclosure landscape was a series of square or oblong fields surrounded by hedges... But, because of the small number of large landowners in the village, Little Shelford had few examples of that sort of landscape... Even so, the lifestyle of those who farmed did change, and the fields must have looked quite different, with larger solid areas of one crop. Many of the boundaries formed at enclosure are still there.

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The Whittlesford Award in 1815 also clarified the boundaries, but the Newton Award wasn't until 1854.

The copy of the enclosure map hanging in the village hall was presented by Professor James Meade, to celebrate his Nobel Prize for Economic Science in 1977.

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It was after the Enclosure Award that houses started to be built outside the village... Rectory Farm is a good example, built on the Rector's land by 1833 – known in the early 20th century as Frog Hall – and Sainsfoins, by 1842, is another.

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Westfield, at the end of High Street – probably replacing an older house immediately to the north – also came into existence after the enclosures... Ley Grove Cottages was a terrace of 7 built on the land allotted for a gravel pit, later extended to 9, and building began along Harston and Hauxton Roads.

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Inside the village, the old rectory, probably the Medieval one, was demolished, and the Priesthaus built in 1858.

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In 1851, Colonel Wale demolished most of the old hall... This should not by now come as any surprise to you... It didn't actually cost him anything to build the new hall... He used his wife's money! Her uncle and her guardian thought the old house was too dilapidated for her to live in, so the family paid... He left just the study and nursery of the old hall as a lodge to the new one, and built it, and a matching stable block in Victorian Gothic style.

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It didn't last long... The hall burnt down in 1928... Only the stables remain, as Number 6 Bridge Lane... An early example of a Barn Conversion...

But we're still in the early Nineteenth Century, and the ordinary villagers were also busy, infilling and rebuilding, along Church Street, along the eastern side of High Street, and along the north side of The Terrace...

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And where they weren't rebuilding and infilling, they were furiously dividing the older cottages into two or even more homes. It was necessary... It was the only way they could fit everyone in... The population was increasing at a tremendous rate, from 220 in 1801 to 367 in 1811, 438 in 1821 and 580 in 1851.

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But while some houses went up, others burned down... Fires were still commonplace... There’s a newspaper record of a fire at Frog Hall Farm - Rectory Farm to you, on Whittlesford Road - in January 1833 which destroyed a large barn and stacks... And this was reported as the fourth recent incendiary fire in the neighbourhood!

Three local men were charged with riotous assembly before the fire... threatening to assault the occupier... and compelling several of his labourers to leave their work.

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Arson was so bad, a hundred and fifty years ago, that between 1830 and 1847, the village was actually allocated a fire engine! Though we did have to share it with Great Shelford and Stapleford...

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In the 19th century the village was a hive of activity...

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We had a blacksmith’s shop, at the corner of Garden Fields and High Street...

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A bakery started in 1841, at Number 15 High Street, where the shop front still exists...

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There was another bakery at Number 65 High Street... again, a shop window survives...

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We had two breweries... One was on Malting, or Maltern, Close, almost opposite Hall Farm... That brewery was burnt down around 1851...

The other brewery was at the corner of Hauxton and Newton Roads, on the site of what are now Numbers 19A-C Hauxton Road...

And we had six public houses! One, The King William The Fourth, is now Number 93 High Street...

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There was The Carrier’s Cart, whose licence was taken away in 1884 by the County Council as there were too many pubs... That’s now Number 67 High Street...

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There was the Plough, still trading as The Navigation...

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The Three Horseshoes in Church Street, which was often used for parish business...

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The Prince Regent, still trading as an annexe of Kirby Lodge, was described as an inn and alehouse, with good accommodation for people and horses...

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There was another called The Chequers, on Church Street... That one was burnt down - I told you, there was a lot of arson about - several nearby cottages also burnt down - The Chequers was rebuilt in the 1860s by Thomas Austin, who would be quite bewildered by its present incarnation - there were few Chinese in Little Shelford in the last Century...

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Behind The Chequers, there was a cottage which did double duty as a school, and as an oven for baking bread... They pulled that down in 1905.

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Apart from the trades I've already mentioned, there were plenty of other working people to keep the pubs in business... There was a wheelwright's shop on Whittlesford Road, and another on Church Street...

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The carrier to London had his premises at 73 High Street...

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And Brenda Bishop will be relieved to know, that the reason she can't get any trees to grow, isn't because she hasn't got green fingers, but because the ground is totally polluted...

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At the ropeworks they also made... asphalt... and disinfecting fluids... But the environmentalist lobby got stuck in, even then... The smoke and odours, from the very tall brick chimney, were so distressing to the whole parish, that the site was bought by J.F. Eaden, and C. Clay, in 1895, and that part of the business was wound up.

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The 1850 gazette also lists a nurseryman and seedsman... a school mistress and a school master... a corn merchant and a tin-plate worker.

The animal pound, on Whittlesford Road, and the stocks close by, were removed in 1859, at the same time as a collection of - quote - "wretched, overcrowded hovels" unquote.

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But, despite all these trades being recorded, these were hard times... there was, in fact, a shortage of employment - the unemployed are always with us! And parish schemes, for providing useful work, included in 1830 a scheme to turn water from the brook into the public ditch, for cleaning out the ditch, and for making a regular outfall to the river...

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Then, in the 1840s, local men repaired roads... They collected gravel and stones locally - which is probably the reason for the humps and hollows in the meadows north of the Dernford Mill footpath... It was hard labour... They cleaned ditches, they cleared snow...

In addition, by 1830 there was an agreement that each farmer should take a share of the men and boys, according to his assessment in money...

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In the second half of the century, things got even worse... We suffered from the agricultural depression, and the population dropped from 580 in 1851... to 474 in 1861... and 441 in 1901.

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Times were so hard that people even left the village... Hard to imagine now! In 1857, between 50 and 60 people left Little Shelford and Stapleford... for Sydney, Australia! Times must have been hard!

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And in 1885... Colonel Wale had to let the Hall Farm house... to people from Australia... Because the depression made it difficult to find a tenant!

But if the people were having a bad time, God was flourishing...

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In the church, the old chancel arch was replaced in 1854... At the same time, the soil of the churchyard was lowered, the chancel and nave (including the 1450 waggon roof) were restored... And a new vestry and porch were built in 1879... In 1888 the tower and walls were repaired.

The congregational chapel was either founded, or refitted and licensed, in 1823, though it was described as a barn, and the building we see now off High Street was probably built in 1881.

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But it's the Nineteenth Century, and the Industrial Revolution has arrived, even in Little Shelford... The railway came in 1845, cutting across arable land and garden allotments... The crossing keeper's cottage was built.

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In 1821 there were plans for a new canal, running from Whaddon, round the south of the village, to join another canal, east of the river... This never materialised, overtaken by the railways.

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Whittlesford Road was disturnpiked, and the gate removed, in 1871, when the County Council took over the upkeep of roads. The milestone outside Number 16 Whittlesford Road, dates from the 19th century.

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Through the 19th century, the Wale family had a considerable impact on the village, owning much of the land, including King's and Hall Farms.

In 1892, they owned 398 acres, besides the Hall and its grounds. In the early years, Miss Wale arranged a school, for 13 girls, to learn sewing, reading and some writing, in a house near the chapel.

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In 1862 Colonel Wale added a wing to a house behind the chapel — what is now Studio Cottage — to make it into a reading room for labouring men and a schoolroom for boys — from 1885-1908 teaching technical work rather than reading and writing.

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The 2 rooms could be put together for "penny readings" for up to a 100 people, and Colonel Wale also supplied books and gave lectures. In 1880 he made the first allotment gardens at Garden Fields, and provided allotments on the south side of The Terrace for the cottages opposite.

Through the 19th century, then, Little Shelford remained a small, largely self-contained community, without the pressures for expansion witnessed by Great Shelford.

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The present century has been really rather dull, after the excitements of the previous thousand years or so...

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In the early 20th century the ropeworks still operated... There was a blacksmith, a builder, a timber yard and carpenter's shop... A Post Office and grocer's shop (in Church Street), the bakery (which closed in 1976), a small shop by Cintra Lodge, used for short periods by people as various as a butcher, sculptor and bicycle maker...

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And a tea stall, near The Chequers.

The number of pubs was now reducing...

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The Three Horseshoes lost its licence in 1907, on the ground that it was superfluous as there were 5 others more convenient.

The Chequers apparently lost its licence as there was not enough custom to pay its way, and was described by Miss Wale around 1914 as more like a private inn.

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The King William The Fourth was found to be superfluous in 1910 and, as there was a dearth of dwelling for working people the Misses Wale had it converted to a dwelling.

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The churchyard was extended in 1913. The church itself managed without further major attention until 1951, when repairs to the spire, tower and vestry walls were carried out. The chapel was closed in the 1970s, although the building remains.

The original recreation room was brought from Whittlesford military hospital in 1919 and placed on the site of old cottages. It was given by the Misses Wale, in memory of their sister Frederika, and named the Freda Room. This building was moved to be the cricket pavilion and the present hall erected in 1925.

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A library was opened in 1922, and 50 books were received.

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Council housing began in the 1920s with 2-8 Hauxton Road. These were the first houses north of The Ropewalk, and the rest of that frontage was gradually built up over 30 years, to the 1960s.

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On the opposite side of the road, beyond the 19th century terrace, the Council built about 1930, and again private houses then extended along the road. Garden Fields was largely built in the early years of the century and the 1930s.

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The Council houses on Whittlesford Road and Beech Close were built in the 1950s and 1960s, but the only large scale private development has been Courtyards, built in the early 1960s, all on previously open land. Other building has largely been infilling of the village centre.

The only real excitement of the twentieth century was in 1928, when the 19th century Shelford Hall burnt down! The Lodge, or The Old House, was again enlarged to form a home. There are dates in the plaster - 1764 and 1858 - which record alterations. A new rectory was built in 1962, and a new house for Manor Farm was built in the 1950s.

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Some of the older features have disappeared - the cottages on Hauxton Road next to the Prince Regent and opposite; those on the corner of Church Street and High Street; and those on the north side of The Terrace, these last as part of a slum clearance scheme in 1956. Also vanished are the blacksmith's forge, which closed in the 1920s, the ropeworks chimney, and the brewery on the corner of Hauxton Road.

 

Miss Powell - of the Wale family - gave the recreation ground - which had been used for cricket since 1877 - to the village in 1947. In 1979 the Parish Council bought the allotment land from Mr. E. Blennie. - hence the name, Blennie's Patch.

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Water was supplied by private wells and five public pumps, and the Parish Council first considered an extension of the water main to the village in 1933, finally agreeing in 1936 after a survey. Hydrants were to be provided, but not standpipes, because of the existing five pumps.

Only one of these pumps now survives - a 19th century cast iron structure outside 77 High Street. The one by Garden Field was demolished in 1965, after a car reversed into it. The water main was extended from Westfield to Rectory Farm in 1956, and to Ley Gove Cottages in 1963.

The roads were first tarmaced in the 1930s, in 1937 arrangements were made for a monthly refuse collection, and electricity arrived at about the same time. Mains sewerage reached the village in 1959, the same year as street lamps.

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Disruption was caused in 1979/80 with the building of the M.11. Gravel was extracted near Ley Grove Cottages, on Rectory Farm and at Shelford End Plantation.

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The population has grown slowly and steadily, from 465 in 1911 to 503 in 1931, 658 in 1951 and 880 in 1981.

Changes to the parish boundary were agreed in 1983, with land east of the M.11 in Hauxton and Harston being transferred to Little Shelford - ironically abut half of this land was shared between the villages before enclosure.

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An old enclosure east of the river was transferred to Sawston, but the Dernford Mill island taken in; and Slipe Meadow or The Boot formed by the waterways of the old Little Shelford Mill has gone to Great Shelford.

Posted August 11 2026

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